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Frequently Asked Questions
About Orchids
How often should I water?
In general, allow the plants to approach dryness, gauged by pot weight or by the pencil trick (the point of a sharpened lead pencil will darken with moisture if the plant has enough water), and apply enough water that it runs freely through the pot. Never allow any potted plant to
"keep its feet wet." Flowering plants may require more frequent watering
to make up for the greater burden of the flowers. Plants will require less water when not in active growth (generally winter months), and more while growing (generally spring and summer months.) Increased frequency of watering will not make up for a poor root system.
Also, seedlings seem to like to stay more evenly moist than mature
orchids. Last, plants
with thinner, softer foliage will generally require more water than those with harder, more succulent leaves. Plants with pseudobulbs (as dendrobiums and cattleyas) generally like to dry out more between
watering than will those without (as phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums).
Do they need to be fed while they are in flower?
What should I be feeding my orchids?
Yes, if anything, flowering plants need extra food. Your plants
will not thrive on water alone. But orchids will do far better with too little fertilizer than with too much. The old adage, "feed weakly, weekly" is very appropriate. Feed every week with a dilute solution. It is far easier to remember than "Did I feed last week, or not?"
We recommend the new Jack's Classic Liquid Orchid Foods with Micro and
Macronutrients. There is a general
formulation (7-5-6) and a bloom booster (3-9-6). Use 1/2 capful or 3/4
teaspoon per gallon of water every week following your regular watering.
By watering the plant first, you are flushing out any buildup of salts in
the pot.
When should I repot?
Repot when fresh rooting activity is expected (generally in the spring) or is very evident, generally every one or two years. Fresh rooting activity is best shown by the nice green
or purple root tips on plump white roots. Often, the main "flush" of rooting will come from the base of the plant (in the case of phalaenopsis), or from the developing newest growth (in the case of dendrobiums and other orchids with pseudobulbs.) Orchid plants need repotting for one or a combination of two main factors: Potting mix breakdown, often evidenced by dead roots; or plant over-growing the pot, growing over the edge. In the first case, a larger pot may not be required, simply replacement of the growing media. In the second case, the plant may require dividing or may simply be shifted into a larger pot. Fresh media should always be used. A good general rule of thumb is to pot for the bottom of the plant, the root system, and not for the top, the foliage.
Most orchids can be repotted even while blooming, but we suggest you take
extra care not to damage the roots since that would impact the plant's
ability to take up water for the plant and flowers.
What is the best potting material?
Orchids, in general, will grow satisfactorily in many different potting mixes if watering and fertilizing are adjusted appropriately.
At Winsome Orchids, we produce three types of bark-based potting medias
geared for different types of orchids. The difference is in the
chemistry and water retention of the mix. We offer:
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Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Dendrobium mix
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Paphiopedilum, Phragmipedium, and Oncidium mix
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Miltoniopsis and Miltonia mix
Where do I cut the flower spike when it is finished?
In most cases, cut at the base of the spike with a sharp, clean tool. Of all of the more commonly available orchids, only phalaenopsis -- the moth orchid -- will rebloom from its old spike. When most orchids have finished blooming, the spike should be cut off with a sharp and clean blade as close to the base of the spike as is practical. Phalaenopsis will
often rebloom from an old spike, so we recommend you do not cut the spike
until it turns "straw brown" color. Some spikes will turn
brown all the way back to the base of the plant, and some just to a node
along the spike. Wherever the brown stops, cut the spike there and
leave it to next blooming season. You can also encourage a spike
to rebloom right away by cutting the spike just above the first node prior
to the first flower on the current spike. Often, within 3-4 weeks, a
new spike will branch out. This secondary spike will usually have
fewer and smaller flowers that the original. And this does take energy
away from your plant, so do this only with the strongest plants.
Another advantage of leaving the spike on your phal is many will put out new
plantlets, called keikes, on the older spike.
What is the easiest orchid for the home?
Phalaenopsis. Most homes can find a location that will
supply the light to grow and rebloom some variety of orchid. The
Phalaenopsis prefers a medium amount of light, and is a little more tolerant
of neglect in watering and feeding than some other varieties. These plants will grow easily under the same conditions enjoyed by African violets.
And most orchids are a bit adaptable to their light range. However,
many types will grow under lower light but will not reflower, so make sure
you know what your variety needs. Another good choice are the paphiopedilums or lady’s-slipper orchids. These, like phalaenopsis, have relatively attractive foliage, and will reflower in home conditions
with low light requirements. Both need to be kept evenly moist. Don’t allow to fully dry out, and regularly
fertilize with a weak dilution of fertilizer.
Can I grow orchids from seed?
Yes, but...Orchid seed is very fine and dust-like, without the nutritive
substance present to support the endosperm as in almost all more-commonly-grown flowering plants. For this reason, orchid seed can only be grown under a very specialized set of conditions usually beyond the capability of home growers. Orchid seed must be grown in a sterile culture,
like that used in hospitals for bacterial cultures. If you are willing to put the time and effort into this process, not to mention the three
nine years required before your plants would flower, it is certainly one of the most interesting aspects of orchid culture. On the other hand, with orchids so reasonably priced these days, why not just get flowering size plants and let the experts do the work for you?
My orchid’s leaves are wrinkled and leathery...Why?
Lack of water or dehydration. The next step is to determine why the plant is not getting sufficient water. First, look to the roots. If the roots appear healthy, white or green and plump, and medium is in good shape, suspect underwatering, especially if the roots are white and the pot is very light. If, on the other hand, the roots are in poor condition, suspect root loss. If the plant has no roots, it cannot take up any water, no matter how much you give it. In this case, the cause may be root loss owing to overwatering or medium deterioration, or a recently repotted and poorly established plant. The immediate solution is to raise humidity in the plants’ vicinity to reduce stress on whatever roots there may be, and then deal with whether to repot or to simply wait until the plant establishes in the fresh medium.
One trick for plants that have suffered root loss is to water the plant and
let drain, then put the plant completely in a clear plastic bag and close
the top. The bag will provide near 100% humidity for the plant to take
up through the leaves until new roots can grow. It may take up to 3
months to see the results, but it is better than losing a good orchid.
Can I grow orchids out-of-doors?
Yes, in some areas. Especially if you live in a frost-free or nearly frost-free area, there are a wide variety of orchids that will grow very happily with light shade out-of-doors year round. Where winters are cold, orchids can be grown on the patio or under trees in the warmer months when frost does not threaten. This
is often a wonderful solution for orchid growers in colder climates, and enables the plants to grow so much better than they would if left indoors all year. Growers in frost-free areas and cooler summer nights (below 60 in August and after) can grow cymbidiums, one of the finest of all garden orchids. Where summer nights are warmer, many varieties of vandas and cattleya types are appropriate.
How are orchids judged?
What do those letters after their names mean?
The American Orchid Society (and other national groups) has established a series of criteria of excellence by which orchid plants are evaluated. Individual orchid plants ("cultivars" or "clones") may receive flower quality awards such as the First Class Certificate (FCC/AOS, 90+ points), Award of Merit (AM/AOS, 80 - 89 points), or Highly Commended Certificate (HCC/AOS, 75 - 79 points). Other awards may be given for achievement in culture, Certificate of Cultural Merit (CCM/AOS), or for botanical novelty, the Certificate of Botanical Recognition (CBR/AOS) and the Certificate of Horticultural Merit (CHM/AOS). While there are other flower awards that may be encountered, these will be the most commonly seen. Such awards are the purchaser’s assurance of a high level of flower quality, whether in the plant itself or of its parents. Plants are judged at monthly judgings held at Centers around the country, or at AOS-sanctioned orchid shows, of which there are over 250 annually around the world.
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